Meals lately have revolved around one theme - refreshment. Most of the last two months have been consumed by mushroom hunting. Though my love of mushrooming exceeds that of most every other activity, it's left me a tad worn out, a feeling that is intensified by returning home to the heat of the city. Nearing the end of summer, it's that time when even a forager is tempted to survive on cherry tomatoes and slices of cucumber alone. If I had the spare time and ice cream maker, I know I'd also make many of my meals entirely of elderflower buttermilk sherbet. Even without the ice cream maker and free time, I've managed to satisfy my craving for that collision of sourness and delicate elderflower cordial by making a lassi.